Wednesday, March 7, 2012

House Hold Hazardous Waste Disposal

The Pennsylvania Department of Environmental Protection 2012 Hazardous Waster Removal Schedule.

Household Hazardous Waste Collection Events

SponsorTimeLocationContact
Allegheny CountyMay 5, 2012North Park Swimming Pool Parking LotPa Resource Council - Zero Waste Pittsburgh - Mike Stepaniak
412-488-7452
Beaver CountyOct. 13, 2012
Beaver County Recycling Center
Brady's Run Park New Brighton, PA
Pa Resource Council - Zero Waste Pittsburgh - Mike Stepaniak
412-488-7452
Bedford CountySept. 29, 2012Bedford County Fairgrounds
Lou Ann Shontz 
814-643-8150
Berks CountyApr. 21, 2012Exeter Twp. Municipal Bldg.  4975 DeMoss Rd. in Reading
Berks County Solid Waste Authority
610-478-6362
Berks CountyOct. 20, 2012First Energy Stadium in Reading
Berks County Solid Waste Authority
610-478-6362
Blair County
June 14, 2012
Peoples Natural Gas Field, Altoona
Beth Strittmatter
(814) 696-8702
Bradford, Sullivan and Tioga Counties
June 29-30, 2012
Northern Tier Solid Waste Authority -Burlington Landfill
Leigh Twoe
(570) 297-4177
ntswa@epix.net
Bucks County
May 7 - Aug. 27, 2012
2012 Drop-off Sites and Dates2012 Program Brochure orBucks HHW Information
Butler County
March 17 thru Oct. 20, 2012
Environmental Coordination Services and Recycling
129 Ash Stop Road
Evans City, PA
Sheryl Kelly at 724-284-5305
Cambria County
May 19, 2012
CTC ETF Facility (Johnstown)
Pa Resource Council - Zero Waste Pittsburgh - Mike Stepaniak
412-488-7452
Centre County
Apr. 27-28, 2012
Centre County Solid Waste Authority,
David Immel at 814-238-7005
Chester CountyApril 14 - Oct. 13 20122012 Drop-off Sites and Dates
610-273-3771
Delaware CountyMarch - October 20122012 Drop-off Sites and Dates
Elk CountyTBD
Stackpole Complex in St. Marys
Bekki Titchner
814-776-5373
Erie CountyMarch 3 - Oct. 27, 2012
Erie County Recycling Convenience Center, 1624 Fillmore Avenue, Millcreek
Call 866-815-0016 for more information
Fulton CountySept. 29, 2012
Penn Village Shopping Center
Lou Ann Shontz 
814-643-8150
Huntingdon CountySept. 29, 2012
Huntingdon County Fairgrounds
Lou Ann Shontz 
814-643-8150
Lawrence County
April - Oct.,
2012
Environmental Coordination Services and Recycling
129 Ash Stop Road
Evans City, PA
Jerry Zona
724-658-6925
Montgomery CountyApril - Oct.,   20122012 Drop-off Sites and DatesMontgomery County
610-278-3618
9:00am-3:00pm
Northampton CountyTBDNorthampton Community College Main Campus
Thomas Dittmar
(610) 559-3200
Philadelphia CountyApril-November 20122012 Drop-off Sites and DatesPhiladelphia HHW Information
Bradford, Sullivan and Tioga CountiesJune 29-30, 2012
Northern Tier Solid Waste Authority -Burlington Landfill

Leigh Twoe

(570) 297-4177
ntswa@epix.net
Somerset CountyMay 19, 2012CTC ETF Facility (Johnstown)Pa Resource Council - Zero Waste Pittsburgh - Mike Stepaniak
412-488-7452
Union CountyTBDSilver Moon Flea MarketJames McCormick
412-488-7452
Washington CountyJuly 14, 2012Washington Mall, Washington
Pa Resource Council - Zero Waste Pittsburgh - Mike Stepaniak
412-488-7452
Westmoreland CountyJune 18, 2012Alcoa Technical Center, Alcoa Center
Don Ferrante
724-337-2143
Westmoreland CountyOct. 6, 2012Westmoreland County Community College, Youngwood
Ellen Keefe
724-836-4129
York CountyMay 5, 2012York County Solid Waste Authority's Management Center parking lotLauren Washburn
717-845-1066


Household Hazardous Wastes (HHW) are those wastes produced in our households* that are hazardous in nature, but are not regulated as hazardous waste, under federal and state laws. Each person in Pennsylvania produces an average of four pounds of HHW each year or about 25,000 tons/yr. statewide. Included are such items as old paints and paint related products, pesticides, pool chemicals, drain cleaners, and degreasers and other car care products. Such consumer waste products, if carelessly managed can, and frequently do, create environmental and public health hazards.
*(The term "households" includes multiple residences, hotels, motels, bunkhouses, ranger stations, crew quarters, campgrounds, picnic grounds, and day-use recreation areas.)

Household Hazardous Waste: How Should It Be Managed?

  1. The best method of managing Household Hazardous Waste (HHW) is to prevent its generation in the first place. This involves selecting the least toxic item "to do the job" and buying only the minimum amounts necessary. Buying in large quantities is not a bargain if half of it has to be discarded.
  2. If the material is still useable (i.e. has not been damaged/shelf life expired, etc.) check with friends and neighbors to see if they might be able to use it. Check with community groups such as Little League, Habitat for Humanity, etc. to see if they can use the product.
  3. If the material is not useable and/or if such "outlets" are not available, it should be taken to your community's HHW Collection Program. Such programs will ensure that your HHW is recycled or, otherwise, managed, in an environmentally preferable way, under the hazardous waste provisions of the law.
    • If you have used oil, take it to a used oil collection site.
    • Spent lead acid batteries can be returned to sellers. In Pennsylvania, dealers are required to take old batteries when new ones are purchased. Spent lead acid batteries may not be discarded in landfills.
    • Note - Used oil and intact lead acid batteries from households are not considered to be hazardous wastes in Pennsylvania. However, they are frequently generated in households and are thus often grouped in the household hazardous waste category. They are also frequently included in HHW collection programs.
  4. If your community does not have a collection program or you must discard the materials prior to the next scheduled event, you may legally discard them in your regular trash pick up, provided:
    1. You have read the label and complied with any disposal directions.
    2. Liquids have either been allowed to evaporate (if water based) or absorbed (if non-water based) on some material such as vermiculite, cat litter, or sawdust, so that there are no freestanding liquids).
    3. The remaining residue has been packaged to prevent leakage while the material is being transported to the disposal facility
    4. The material is placed out in small quantities, over several collection periods.
  5. Pharmaceutical Disposal
  6. How to Manage Old Propane Cylinders and Tanks
For questions on specific disposal issues, contact a waste management chemist in yourDEP Regional Offices. You can get additional information by contacting the PA HHW hotline at 1-800-346-4242

Thursday, February 23, 2012

Using Ozone to Clean


    



Ozone is a naturally occurring substance in nature that we cannot live without. Ozone is an activated form of oxygen with three atoms where regular oxygen has two. Ozone in the upper atmosphere filters out harmful rays from the sun without which all life on earth would cease to exist. Closer to home ozone is produced by lightning in thunderstorms. I'm sure you have experienced the freshness in the air after a storm. Ozone is very unstable and has an average half life of 20 minutes, which is why ozone must be produced at the point of use and cannot be stored in a container for later use.
Ozone will cast off it's third atom onto any other organic element thereby oxidizing it or converting it into another substance. In the case of odors it will convert a foul-smelling substance into a non-odorous substance naturally, with no unhealthy chemicals to buy, store, or use. Once ozone has done it's job it converts back to oxygen. Ozone will also deactivate and destroy molds, bacteria, virus, fungus, and mildew.



Ozone is "active oxygen", nature's special element. (Each ozone molecule consists of three oxygen atoms.)
·         Ozone is a natural purifier.
·         Ozone is created in nature by the combination of oxygen in air and the ultraviolet rays of the sun or by the corona discharge that occurs during a lightning storm.
·         Ozone has the clean, fresh scent noticed after a rainstorm.
·         Ozone is the most powerful oxidizer safely used.
·         Ozone is the alternative water purifier to traditional chemicals such as chlorine and bromine.
·         Ozone destroys bacteria, viruses, mold, and mildew.
·         Ozone eliminates spores, cysts, yeast, and fungus.
·         Ozone oxidizes iron, sulfur, manganese and hydrogen sulfate.
·         Ozone eliminates oils and other contaminants in water.
·         Ozone eliminates odors in air, such as smoke.
·         Ozone keeps water clean and sparkling clear.
·         Ozone keeps food and water fresh
·         Ozone leaves no chemical by-products in water.
·         Ozone leaves no chemical taste or smell.
·         Ozone will not burn eyes or make them red or irritated.
·         Ozone will not irritate or dry out skin, nose, or ears.
·         Ozone will not leave a chemical film on material or skin.
·         Ozone will not discolor or damage hair or clothing.
·         Ozone rids water and air of unhealthy microorganisms.
·         Ozone is NOT a carcinogen.
·         Ozone is not flammable and will not explode.
·         Ozone is not a fire hazard.
·         Ozone will not damage electrical wiring, plumbing fittings or pipes.


·         In 1906, Nice, France built the first water purification plant to use ozone.
·         Los Angeles, California has the largest ozone drinking water treatment plant in the world.
·         Most bottled water is purified by ozone.
·         Ozone is used to clean water and toxic waste.
·         Ozone purifies water in well and home drinking water systems.
·         Ozone systems have brought life back to "dead" contaminated lakes and pools.
·         Ozone is used to purify air in hotel rooms, boats, RVs, cars, and smoke/fire damaged structures.
·         Ozone is used in thousands of residential and commercial pools and spas all over the world.
·         Ozone does not have to be purchased or stored.
·         Ozone is generated "on site" and is introduced into the water or air automatically.
·         Ozone does not affect the pH balance of water, thus minimizing pH adjustments.
·         Ozone helps reduce total dissolved solids in water so that the water does not have to be changed as often.
·         Ozone eliminates much of the routine maintenance because it does such an effective job keeping the water clean.

Mold Fact Sheet






Mold Fact Sheet – Referenced directly from the EPA and CDC
There is always some mold everywhere - in the air and on many surfaces. Molds have been on the Earth for millions of years. Mold grows where there is moisture.

Mold and Your Health
Exposure to damp and moldy environments may cause a variety of health effects, or none at all. Some people are sensitive to molds. For these people, molds can cause nasal stuffiness, throat irritation, coughing or wheezing, eye irritation, or, in some cases, skin irritation. People with mold allergies may have more severe reactions. Immune-compromised people and people with chronic lung illnesses, such as obstructive lung disease, may get serious infections in their lungs when they are exposed to mold. These people should stay away from areas that are likely to have mold, such as compost piles, cut grass, and wooded areas.
A link between other adverse health effects, such as acute idiopathic pulmonary hemorrhage among infants, memory loss, or lethargy, and molds, including the moldStachybotrys chartarum (Stachybotrys atra), has not been proven. Further studies are needed to find out what causes acute idiopathic hemorrhage and other adverse health effects.

Mold and Your Home
Mold is found both indoors and outdoors. Mold can enter your home through open doorways, windows, vents, and heating and air conditioning systems. Mold in the air outside can also attach itself to clothing, shoes, bags, and pets and can be carried indoors.
Mold will grow in places with a lot of moisture, such as around leaks in roofs, windows, or pipes, or where there has been flooding. Mold grows well on paper products, cardboard, ceiling tiles, and wood products. Mold can also grow in dust, paints, wallpaper, insulation, drywall, carpet, fabric, and upholstery.

You Can Control Mold
Inside your home you can control mold growth by:
Keeping humidity levels between 40% and 60%;
Promptly fixing leaky roofs, windows, and pipes;
Thoroughly cleaning and drying after flooding;
Ventilating shower, laundry, and cooking areas.
If mold is growing in your home, you need to clean up the mold and fix the moisture problem. Mold growth can be removed from hard surfaces with commercial products, soap and water, or a bleach solution of no more than 1 cup of bleach in 1 gallon of water.
Mold growth, which often looks like spots, can be many different colors, and can smell musty. If you can see or smell mold, a health risk may be present. You do not need to know the type of mold growing in your home, and CDC does not recommend or perform routine sampling for molds. No matter what type of mold is present, you should remove it. Since the effect of mold on people can vary greatly, either because of the amount or type of mold, you can not rely on sampling and culturing to know your health risk.   The best practice is to remove the mold and work to prevent future growth.
If you choose to use bleach to clean up mold:
Never mix bleach with ammonia or other household cleaners. Mixing bleach with ammonia or other cleaning products will produce dangerous, toxic fumes.
Open windows and doors to provide fresh air.
Wear non-porous gloves and protective eye wear.
If the area to be cleaned is more than 10 square feet, consult the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) guide titled Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings. Although focused on schools and commercial buildings, this document also applies to other building types. You can get it free by calling the EPA Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse at (800) 438-4318, or by going to the EPA web site at http://www.epa.gov/mold/mold_remediation.html.
Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using bleach or any other cleaning product.

MOLD PREVENTION TIPS
Keep the humidity level in your home between 40% and 60%. Use an air conditioner or a dehumidifier during humid months and in damp spaces, like basements.
 
Be sure your home has enough ventilation. Use exhaust fans which vent outside your home in the kitchen and bathroom. Make sure your clothes dryer vents outside your home.
 
Fix any leaks in your home’s roof, walls, or plumbing so mold does not have moisture to grow.
 
Clean up and dry out your home thoroughly and quickly (within 24–48 hours) after flooding.
 
Add mold inhibitors to paints before painting.
 
Clean bathrooms with mold-killing products.
 
Remove or replace carpets and upholstery that have been soaked and cannot be dried promptly. Consider not using carpet in rooms or areas like bathrooms or basements that may have a lot of moisture.
 
To learn more about preventing mold in your home, see the Environmental Protection Agency's publication A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home athttp://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/moldguide.html

Friday, February 17, 2012

Everything You Need to Know about Vaccines


Everything You Need to Know about Vaccines

Keeping up with vaccines is not always easy, particularly if you live in a household with family members of different ages. Vaccination needs can also change quickly if there’s an outburst of a disease.
These days, however, figuring out who needs to get vaccinated, when and where is as easy as visiting Vaccines.gov, the federal government’s centralized portal for everything related to vaccines. The portal recently launched a Spanish-language version of the site.
“Vaccinations protect you but also protect family members and the community, and this website will help everybody get answers to some of the most basic questions about vaccines,” said Guillermo Avilés-Mendoza, a Public Health Advisor to the National Vaccine Program Office at the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services.

Useful Information about Vaccines

The site offers information about vaccines from a practical and useful perspective. You’ll find, for example, vaccination calendars, explanations on how vaccines work and resources on which vaccines you need to take before going abroad.
In addition, you can:
  • Read about the safety and effectiveness of vaccines.
  • Learn which diseases are preventable through vaccines.
  • Become familiar with the many acronyms and abbreviations surrounding vaccinations.
“It’s a place where you can find practical and useful tools,” said Guillermo Avilés-Mendoza.

Who Needs to Get Vaccinated and When

It’s a myth that vaccinations are only for children, pregnant women and senior citizens. In fact, every year thousands of adults get vaccinated against flu. There are different factors that determine if you need to get vaccinated, including your age, lifestyle, medical conditions and the places you visit. You might also want to get vaccinated if there’s an outburst of a particular disease, like whooping cough.
Dozens of people died during an outbreak in 2010, most of them children under the age of one who couldn’t get vaccinated because they were too young. That’s why the federal government recommends that 11 or 12 year-olds get a booster of whooping cough vaccine, and that all adults get vaccinated against the whooping cough and get a booster every 10 years.
“The vaccine protects the person who took it, but also those who can’t get vaccinated, such as small children and people with weak immune systems,” said Avilés-Mendoza.

Where to Get Vaccinated

Vaccinations are available in many places, from your doctor’s office and hospitals to pharmacies, churches and even schools and colleges. And many insurance companies cover the cost of vaccines. But what if you don’t have insurance?
You can always get vaccinated at the many community clinics funded by the federal government across the country. These clinics offer low cost vaccinations, so you pay what you are able to afford. Vaccinations.gov has a community clinic locator. Just type in your ZIP code.
“These clinics are great because they also offer other types of services such as prenatal care, dental and mental health services,” said Avilés-Mendoza.

Monday, February 13, 2012

Dust Mites - An Unwanted House Guest





Living With Dust Mites

If you have allergies or asthma, a tiny creature living in your home could be making big problems for you. Although you can't see them, dust mites do live in your home!

Dust mites are microscopic and are found in most high humidity environments.  In homes with dust mites, a recent survey determined that dust mite populations are highest in the following areas:

Beds – Over 60% of the dust mite population loves your bed as much as you do. Dust mites are living in your mattress, pillow and covers.
Upholstery – Over 30% of the dust mite populous enjoy lounging of your sofas, chairs, and other fabric furniture.
Carpets – 10% of dust mites set up shop in your carpet. Most commonly in your bedroom carpet.
Air Ducts – 0%. This is because there is no food source in your air ducts, although many other nasty allergens and thrive in air ducts.

This makes sense sense because dust mites feed on shed skin scales from humans, animals, birds, moths, and butterflies; also on pollen, fungi and bacteria - which explains their high concentration in mattresses, upholstery and carpet where abundant skin scales provide a plentiful food source.

Dust mites no ability to bite and their food must be moistened so the protein can be absorbed.
Dust mites need moist conditions to survive. Dust mites thrive in humidity levels above 55%.
Dust Mites live 2 to 2 1/2 months, but cannot survive more than 7 to 10 days in areas with humidity less than 50%.

The most effective way to evict dust mites is to:
Reduce indoor humidity levels
Vacuum regularly with a HEPA filter
Wash bedding weekly in hot water
Purchase a new pillow every 6 months
Encase your bedding
Clean you mattress, upholstery and carpets twice a year.

Thursday, February 9, 2012

Vacuum Cleaner Reviews


Choose The Right Vacuum

Carpets top the list of critical cleaning chores, an area where upright models have traditionally excelled. But you may prefer a canister or a central vacuum for other cleaning. Within types, powerful unit, one that performed well on carpets, bare floors, and in our airflow tests. Here's what else to go by when shopping:
Consumer Reports

Types

Before you buy a new vacuum, learn about the different types of vacuums on the market. While one type might have features that appeal to you, it might not fit your budget or your lifestyle.

Upright vacuums


Upright vacuums
This traditional design is still the most popular. Uprights tend to cost less than canister vacuums.
Pros: Uprights generally provide a wider cleaning swath than canisters, and they tend to be better at deep-cleaning carpets. Most are also easier to store.
Cons: You must drag the entire machine back and forth for most floor and carpet cleaning. Some top performers weigh 20 pounds or more, although many competent machines are much lighter. Uprights also tend to be noisier than canisters overall.

Canister vacuums


Canister vacuums
The best ones clean carpets just about as well as uprights. (Pet owners note: The uprights and canisters that did best at regular cleaning also tended to excel at picking up pet hair.)
Pros: Canisters tend to be better than uprights for cleaning bare floors, drapes, upholstery, and under furniture, and they're easier to handle on stairs. Most are quieter, and you mostly need to move only the hose and powerhead, not the entire machine.
Cons: The entire vacuum tends to be heavier and bulkier than an upright, and the hose and wand make a canister harder to store.

Central vacuums


Central vacuums
Although they're convenient, central vacuums are pricey, and they typically require professional installation.
Pros: They're even easier to use than a canister. You carry only the hose and powerhead, and there's no vacuum body to pull along. Central vacuums tend to be relatively quiet, and they don't need to be emptied frequently.
Cons: Their 30-foot hose can be cumbersome and takes up storage space. And there's no place to store cleaning tools while you work.

Small vacuums


Small vacuums
These miniature electric models come with or without a power cord.
Pros: They're handy for light, quick surface cleaning on short-pile carpets and bare floors.
Cons: They lack the power and capacity of full-sized models.

Robotic vacuums


Robotic vacuums
Think of these more as expensive novelties than practical appliances.
Pros: Do the grunge work while you relax. In uncluttered rooms, a robotic vacuum can fill in between regular vacuuming sessions.
Cons: They can be time-consuming to set up and run, and they tended to miss edges and corners in our tests. Some also tended to close doors behind them, locking themselves in a room.

Stick vacuums


Stick vacuums
Stick vacuums generally provide smaller capacities than upright models but they do weigh less. Like uprights, they have long bodies and handles, and foot nozzles. Many are battery powered. They are mainly for picking up surface litter and not a replacement for a good performing deep cleaning conventional vacuum.
Pros: They're convenient when you need to quickly clean up a mess. Plus, they eliminate your having to bend to clean up a dirty floor.
Cons: Most don't perform as well on carpet as handheld vacuums, the capacity of their dirt bin is typically small, and most are fairly noisy.

Some vacuum cleaner features improve performance or take some of the drudgery out of cleaning. But don't be dazzled by gadgets. Here are the vacuum features to consider.

Add-on cleaning tools


Add-on cleaning tools
Think twice about splurging on extra cleaning tools. Most vacuums come with a narrow tool for crevices, a small upholstery brush, and a round brush for dusting. On canister vacuums, a power nozzle cleans carpets more thoroughly than a simple suction nozzle. These basic tools should suffice for most cleaning jobs. Others may include: tools that combine features of two tools, such as upholstery tools and dusting brushes; bare-floor tools and wall brushes to clean hard surfaces; and wands and stretch hoses to extend the reach of attachments.

Attachment reach

This is the manufacturer's estimate of the combined length of the suction hose and all the hose-extension attachments provided with the machine.

Bags vs. bagless


Bags vs. bagless
Some upright vacuums and canisters use bags, some collect dirt in a bin. Bag-type vacuums tend to hold more dirt, and emptying them releases less dust into the air. An indicator that tells you when the bag or bin is full reminds you to empty the dirt before it impairs cleaning. With bagless vacuums you can save money by not having to buy bags, but they still use filters (such as HEPA filters) that need to be periodically cleaned or replaced. Replacement filters tend to be significantly more expensive than bags. Another caveat: Emptying the dustbin and cleaning a filter can be messy, and handling it can expose you to dust and other allergens.

Bare-floor options

These include equipment and features that can help when cleaning hardwood, vinyl, and other uncarpeted floor surfaces. Most common are an on/off switch for the vacuum's brush (see below); Other options include a bare-floor setting, which is usually a very low-height setting for uncovered floors.

Brush agitator

Also known as the roller brush, it is found underneath the machine. This roller has bristles attached to it and spans the width of the base. It spins when the machine is on and dislodges dirt, dust, and grit from the carpet so that the airflow can pick it up easily. Some models have a switch to turn the brush agitator off when cleaning bare floors; a rotating brush on a bare floor can move dirt and debris around before it can be sucked up. The switch also makes it less likely that throw rugs, bedspreads, and the like will inadvertently become tangled in the roller brush. And it eliminates any hazard should the vacuum tip over while you have the hose extended.

Carpet-height adjustment

This feature adjusts the height of the machine to a carpet's pile height to allow for easy movement and thorough cleaning. Adjustments are automatic on some models, but we prefer manual control.

Dirt sensor

Found on only a few models, this feature can detect when the vacuum is no longer picking up dirt. However, as our tests have demonstrated, that doesn't necessarily mean there's no dirt or debris left to be picked up.

Easy on/off

A switch that is located on the handle or where your foot can activate it is more convenient than one on the body of the vacuum.

Filter


Filter
A growing number of vacuums are claimed to do a better-than-standard job of filtering out fine particles that may pass through the machine and escape into the air through the exhaust, either through the bag or a separate filter. Micron filters can provide a higher level of filtration than standard models, but possibly not as high as high-efficiency particulate-air (HEPA) filtration. HEPA filtration might benefit someone with asthma. It provides the highest level of vacuum-cleaner filtration. In our tests, models with a HEPA filter have been very effective at reducing emissions. However, some models that don't have HEPA filters have performed just as well in our tests, and such vacuums may cost less than HEPA models.

Edge cleaner

Models with this feature (including most uprights and some canisters) can pick up debris under the entire area of the cleaning head. That's useful when cleaning wall-to-wall carpeting--the vacuum can clean right up to where the carpet meets the wall.

Full-container indicator

Some models have a feature that alerts the user when the dust bag or container is full, which impairs the vacuum's ability to clean. Some bagless models simply have a clear bin, letting you see when the vacuum is full. Other models have an electronic or mechanical indicator.

Headlight

A headlight (or headlamp) improves visibility under furniture or in rooms without direct light. It's all but standard on most upright models and is positioned on the power head on some canister vacuums.

Motor protection system

This serves to protect a vacuum's blower motor from overheating or electrically overloading, particularly when jammed.

Retractable cord

A feature more common in canisters, it lets you rewind the cord with a slight tug or the push of a button. Most machines have an electrical cord of at least 20 feet; some cords are longer than 30 feet, which we think is a plus. A cord-release clip, found mostly on upright models allows the entire cord to be released at once, rather than one wrap at a time.

Self-propelled

This feature typically uses a transmission and drive system to assist the pushing and pulling of the vacuum, thereby requiring little effort by the user. However, it typically adds weight that can make some vacuums very heavy and difficult to carry or use on stairs.

Suction control

Lets you reduce the flow of air through the hose, which can be helpful when cleaning upholstery and curtains.
Sometimes you might decide to buy a vacuum based on brand as opposed to a specific model. Here is information that will help you compare vacuums by brand.

Bissell

Bissell positions its upright vacuums to meet specific consumer preferences and needs. Healthy Home models target consumers who want to “breathe easy” by reducing allergens; the Pet Hair Eraser is meant to appeal to dog and cat owners. Bissell products are available at a wide variety of discount stores and mass merchants, including Wal-Mart, Target, and Kmart. Upright models range in price from $40 to $270. Bissell also makes hand and stick vacuums, canisters, compact hand extractors, upright deep cleaners, and bare-floor cleaners, and makes carpet-care products under the Woolite brand.
Bissell focuses less on canisters and has just two models, priced at $50 and $230. Bissell canisters are sold through the same retail stores as their other vacuum products.

Dirt Devil

Dirt Devil is positioned for the when-I-can-get-to-it consumer who can accept surface cleaning. Marketing efforts focus on ease of use and convenience to make cleaning quick and effortless. Dirt Devil is available at a wide variety of discount stores and mass merchants, including Wal-Mart, Target, and Kmart. Upright models range in price from $40 to $250. Dirt Devil also makes hand and stick vacuums, canister models, deep cleaners, and central vacuums. Dirt Devil has been focusing on design lately, teaming up with designer Karim Rashid to produce elegant, stylish cordless hand and stick vacuums.
Dirt Devil has just two entry-level compact canister models, priced at $80 and $150. They are sold through the same retail stores as their other vacuum products.

Dyson

Dyson is a relatively new brand in the U.S. market. With a very effective advertising campaign featuring its namesake owner and designer, Dyson entered the U.S. with a bang, quickly garnering a competitive share of sales. Ranging in price from $300 to $600, Dyson vacuums single-handedly increased the average price paid for uprights and created a new top-pricing tier in the mass market. Dyson focuses on innovation, technology, and design, and has connected with status-seeking consumers, making it the “It” brand of vacuums. Originally producing only uprights, Dyson has recently introduced a canister and a hand vacuum. The brand is available nationwide through major mass merchants such as Target, Best Buy, and Sears.

Eureka

Eureka takes a situational approach to making vacuums and sells a wide variety of models. Uprights range in price from $50 to $200. Eureka is a national brand available in a wide variety of discount stores and mass merchants, including Wal-Mart, Target, and Kmart. It also makes hand and stick vacuums, canister models, deep cleaners, and central vacuums.
Eureka has about a half dozen canister models, ranging in price from $60 to $260, available through a more targeted selection of retailers, such as Bed Bath & Beyond and Lowe's.

Hoover

Hoover is positioned for the consumer who vacuums regularly and appreciates a deep clean. It introduced its first vacuum in 1907 and has established itself as one of the most recognizable brands in this country. More recently, Hoover was bought by TTI Floor Care, the owners of Dirt Devil, from Whirlpool. Hoover sells a wide variety of uprights in mass-market retailers, with models ranging in price from $50 to $300. It also makes hand and stick vacuums, canister models, deep cleaners, central vacuums, bare-floor cleaners, and an outdoor sweeper.
Hoover has a more established presence in canister vacuums and makes about a dozen models, priced from $80 to $300.

Kenmore

Kenmore is a trusted brand in appliances, including vacuums. Once exclusive to Sears, Kenmore uprights are now available in Kmart stores as a result of a merger of the retailers. Kenmore uprights range in price from $80 to $300. Kenmore also offers canister models, hard-surface cleaners, and a carpet shampooer.
Kenmore is the brand leader in canister models and sells a wide range of models from $50 to $600 at Sears as well as Kmart. The best-selling canisters are priced between $250 and $500.